SOU’WESTER
Label: “Chapeau Du Monde
Styled by Kip Kipling’s of Rochester, N.Y.”
circa 1967
Velvet; satin
Gift of Margaret F. Suesse
Flowers: Red rose
CARTWHEEL
Label: “Leon hats/The Milan King/New York”
circa 1939
Straw: plaited, stitched; grosgrain ribbon; cloth flowers
Bequest of Elaine Sweet Estate
Flowers: Poppy, cornflower, miscellaneous wild flowers
Miss Sweet (1896-1985) was a prominent San Diegan active in many philanthropic societies. The Historical Society received a wide assortment of hats and clothing from her estate that testify to the breadth and depth of San Diego style over a period of almost 60 years.
Another cartwheel, a boater style hat with an extremely wide, flat brim, can be seen in the lower left of this 1939 Vogue cover.
HEADBAND
Late 1940s – mid 1950s
Velvet pipecleaner
Bequest of Elaine Sweet Estate
Flowers: Daisy?
Simplicity itself, this headband of shaped chenille wire forms a five petaled flower at each ear.
CLOCHE
Label: “Knickerbocker/Fashions/Washington, D.C.” and “Mrs. Silverman”
1949-1953
Straw: plaited
Gift of Elena Mier y Teran
Flowers: Cactus blossom
The milliner who made this hat contrasts the smooth and textured quality of plaited straw as well as the play between solid and open weaving. The front dangles resemble berries or cherries and are garnished with greenery that, at first glance, resemble pickles, but upon closer inspection prove to be cactus blossoms.
“POPOVER” STYLE
Label: “Model by/Moline-Miller/Los Angeles”
1921-25
Straw: woven, cloth flowers, raffia wheat, velvet band and bow
Bequest of Elaine Sweet Estate
Flowers: Wheat, stock
Popular in the early 1920s, this closer fitting hat complemented the new, shorter hairstyles. Just as clothing styles radically altered from the Teens to the Twenties, the headgear and hairstyles changed as well. During the opening years of the century, full hair was worn loosely pinned up and was complemented by a large, overscale hat. During the early 1920s, women began to cut their hair and style it closer to the head. Hat styles like the “popover” and the later, extremely popular cloche, reflected that head-hugging style.
TOQUE
Label: “Leslie James/Marston’s/San Diego”
1958-60
Straw: plaited, stitched; silk and cloth flowers
Gift of Mrs. Elizabeth Bade Bacon, 1987
Flowers: Cymbidium orchid, roses, violets, lilac, forget-me-not
The finest examples of the artificial flower maker’s art have been used in this symphony of colors from designer Leslie James. The orchid is hand painted, the lilacs and rose buds formed with careful naturalism. A bill for $40 found in the accompanying hat box was dated April 14, 1959.
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