More Floral Hats

The flowers that bloom in the spring…soon find their way onto a woman’s head. The “Spring Bonnet” or “Easter Bonnet”, a sartorial tribute to the rebirth of Nature, features some of Her finest creations. Roses, lilies, tulips, orange blossoms, orchids and lily-o’-the-valley, both real and artificial, have graced feminine headgear for over 200 years. During the 18th century, European court fashion favored extremely tall and elaborate wigs and hairpieces incorporating decorative elements. When flowers were incorporated, small flasks of water were hidden in the headpiece as miniature vases and the flowers placed in them to keep fresh.

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BOATER

Label: “The May Co./Los Angeles”
1910s
Straw: plaited, sewn; silk ribbon, cloth flowers
Gift of Catharine Albright Woldraft
Flowers: Aster, sweet William

Straw has been a principal media of hats for men and women. The rough straw boater worn by Venetian gondoliers and the Panama hat are among the most well known examples. The donor stated that she bought the hat in Los Angeles before her family moved to San Diego in 1912.

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BOATER

Label: “Marston’s/San Diego”
Late 1930s
Straw: plaited, stitched
Gift of Catharine Albright Woldraft
Flowers: Rose

A “boater” is the term given to a hat with flat crown and a flat brim usually made in straw. The style, also known as a “sailor” or “canotier,” was popular with men in its traditional, simple form. Women wore more embellished versions, modified silhouettes, and used felts and fabrics in addition to straw.

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BONNET

1889-92
Cotton lace; glass beads; cloth flowers
SDH 81.87.4
Gift of Mrs. Robert Dunn
Flowers: Lily-of-the-valley, dandelion

This type of bonnet, sometimes referred to as a “saucer”, was worn perched high on the back of the head as seen in this illustration from an 1892 Harpers Bazaar.

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BONNET

1885-86
Raffia: plaited; cotton lace; silk velvet; silk flowers
Gift of Mrs. Louise Stewart
Flowers: Violets

This small, heart shaped bonnet would be worn back on the head, the violets rimming the wearer’s face. The bonnet uses two types of a novelty open- weave raffia to create a textured form.

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DEEP-BRIMMED CLOCHE

Label: “Fine Maid/California” and “El Patio Apparel/Sixth Ave”
circa 1957-58
Raffia: variegated pink; velvet band; cloth flowers
Gift of Alice K. Miller and Philip Klauber
Flowers: Azalea, lily-o’-the-valley

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TOQUE

Label: “Otti Moll/original/La Jolla/California”
1960-62
Cloth flowers; silk ribbon and binding
Gift of Alice K. Miller and Philip Klauber
Flowers: Hydrangea, hyacinth

“The hat that’s a flower…like putting your head in an enormous chrysanthemum,” was Vogue’s description of the fashionable hat. Horticultural headgear was extremely popular in the early 1960s and this toque is a typical example of the floral hat of the period. This hat is the creation of Otti Moll, a La Jolla milliner. Her business at 5749 La Jolla Boulevard was listed from 1950-62 and then again from 1964-71.

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